I have seen where some say this is not necessary but I prefer to err on the side of caution! There should be no bare wire showing once the wire nut has been tightened! Be sure to wrap the wire and the wire nuts with electrical tape. Then, twist the wire nut catching the wires inside. (Remove the small piece of plastic insulation from the end of the switch wires and the socket wires first.) Twist the ends of the wire slightly before covering it with the wire nut. Insert the socket, wire ends first, up through the 1-1/4″ coupling, and out the top of the 1″ nipple.Ĭonnect the black wire from the light socket to the wire from the switch, using a wire nut. Loosely thread the 1″ close nipple into the 1-1/4″ to 1″ reducing bushing from the previous step. Loosely thread the 1 – 1/4″ to 1″ Reducing Bushing into the 1-1/4″ coupling. Insert the switch into the elbow and Tee fitting with one tube-covered wire extending from each end. The plastic coating on the wire is to protect you from being electrocuted! You don’t want to damage that wire! The tubing helps prevent the plastic coating on the wire from being damaged on the abrasive interior of the pipes. )Ĭut two pieces of the smaller vinyl tubing about 3″ long and slide one over each of the rotary switch wires, stopping about an inch from the switch. If the elbow, once tightened, is not at the right angle, wrap with 2 – 3 turns of Teflon tape and retighten. Not all the threading starts in the same spot. Thread the male end of a 90° Street Elbow into one end of the 1″ Tee. The Lamp Cord we chose is an 8′ Silver cord.ĭisclaimer – A word of caution here, work with a licensed electrician or a certified professional to help with wiring your lamp. We are not responsible for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on. After roughing this up, we realized there was a possibility of the socket causing a potential short and we chose the safer light socket.Ĭreate your own amazing industrial pipe lamp!Ĭlick here to grab your own copy of this Illustrated Step-by-Step Guide! Industrial Pipe Lamp – E-Book For this Industrial Pipe Lamp project, you will need: Note in this picture, this type of light socket was changed to the kind in the picture and the materials list below. This may look like a disparate group of items, but when assembled together in a particular way, the end result makes a real conversation piece! Then, using the directions, I put together a second one, which will be on the wall in the game room. Jon-Michael put this first one together as I took photos of the process. While you and I may not be savvy with all the plumbing paraphernalia, here, Jon-Michael, who works at the local Ace Hardware store, has come up with an easy DIY project! How cool is this? Can you imagine the impression made when you turn the red handle on the gate valve and the light comes on? I added the plug at the end of the project.Have you seen the ‘industrial pipe lamps’, which seem to be one of the new trends? They have a Steampunk look, don’t they? Yes, they are so unique! They also have a hefty price on them but how difficult would it be to make an industrial pipe lamp at home? And at what cost? There's not enough room in the pipes to make a knot, so use a heavy duty zip-tie on the cord as a stopper inside the PVC end caps. If you drill the holes for the cable grips too big, don't worry. Cable grips stop the lamp wire from yanking out. The second threaded cable grip is installed like the first. Once the light socket is on, feed the lamp cord through the pipes, cementing the pipes together as you work. The cable grips have a screw on cap and you'll need needle nose pliers to tighten the cap inside the PVC end cap on the end the socket is installed. I made the hole just big enough to screw in the cable grips and added a drop of Gorilla super glue to the threads. I started by making a guide hole with a regular bit for the stepped bit. I started with drilling a hole in both of the end caps to screw in the threaded cable grips. I had the lamp cord, light socket, cable grips and plug in the workshop already, all leftover from other projects. If it's unavailable in your area, try Rust-Oleum specialty paints for plastic. It's a quick drying film that can be sanded to an iron sheen. I found this German paint in Japan and it is awesome!! Auger bit to make the hole for the screw used on the vertical piece of wood *This is old multipurpose super glue I wanted to use up. I also live in Japan and all of the materials were purchased locally. I already had everything I used in my workshop, so I didn't need to buy anything.
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